Jewels of Bohemia Day 7

Monday, September 1

After breakfast, we departed Cesky Krumlov for an overland journey to Slavonice. En route, we stopped in southern Bohemia's regional capital, Ceske Budejovice, to visit the famous Budweiser Budvar Brewery. While the history of brewing in Ceske Budejovice dates back to the 13th century, Budweiser Budvar was founded here in 1895 (the U.S. brewer chose the name Budweiser in 1876 because it was synonymous for superior beer).  

After our brewery tour, we stopped in Trebon where we had lunch of eel in a local restaurant. 

We then stopped in Jindrichuv Hradec, a charming 13th-century town with a huge castle just outside its Old Town. We visited the castle museum, which features the world's largest working mechanical Nativity scene, which is even written in the Guinness Book of World Records. The magnificent nativity scene, which was made by local Jindřichův Hradec master hosier Tomáš Krýza, took over 60 years to construct. There are 1398 human and animal figures, of which 133 are movable. The figurines are made of wood and laminate materials. The original mechanism, which in the beginning was driven by a hand-crank, brings the entire piece into motion using a single electric motor. 

Next we visited the Jacques Gobelin tapestry workshops and studios.  Here they were repairing centuries old tapestries by hand.  It could cost as much as hundred of thousands of dollars to repair some of these tapestries, depending on the amount of work required.  We also saw demonstrations of hand weaving.

  


We arrived in Slavonice in time to freshen up at our hotel before gathering in the hotel’s wine cellar to taste the cellar’s wines.   

Then on to a local restaurant for a festive dinner complete with traditional Moravian music.  There was a violinist, two guitarists and a drummer (spokeman) and they played all kinds of music, ending with Good Night Irene, in which all the American travelers joined in.

 

Jewels of Bohemia Day 6

August 31, Sunday

After breakfast, we journeyed a short distance outside Cesky Krumlov to visit Zlata Koruna (Golden Crown) Monastery, a former abbey founded in 1263 by a King of Bohemia that is the Czech Republic’s best preserved Cistercian monastery. The current monastery complex—recognized by UNESCO as a national cultural treasure—consists of a variety of Gothic structures, a three-nave basilica, and a chapel dating from about 1370.

Tereza, our trip leader, in orange scarf, and the tour leader for the monastery

Then, we set out on brief hike to a nearby Celtic settlement, whose remains date from the second century B.C.  Dave and 4 others hiked on to the remains of the castle, but the rest of us didn’t want to make the arduous hike down and back up from the ruins.

After lunch we went horseback riding in the Czech countryside, which included a ride around the meadows surrounding Klet Mountain, a stable visit, and picnic dinner around a bonfire.

My horse Lisa with the peach ear covers

From left:  Arnet, Jayne, Me, Dave, Bob after horseback riding

After horseback riding we went to the home of a woman and her family.  The woman, her husband, two children, and her parents lived in this home built in 1614.  They grew much of their food themselves.  The husband was a teacher and the woman’s parents were artists.  She and her eight year old daughter played their violins for us and she sang.  She served us oregano tea and cookies that she had made.  She cooked on a wood fired stove and oven.

 

Odell and our hostess

Me, Nancy, Jayne, Alyce, Paulette, Bob, Roy, Arnet, Al, Tad and Charlotte

Our hostess showing us her wood fired oven

Jewels of Bohemia Day 5

Saturday, August 30      Český Krumlov

After breakfast, we took a walking tour of Cesky Krumlov, one of Europe's most picturesque locales. Nestled inside a narrow loop of the Vltava River, this romantic town with its hilltop castle was once a wealthy trading center and a favorite of European nobility. Today, its confection of red-gabled roofs, elegant bridges, and storybook castle lures lovers of history, culture, and architecture alike. Established in 1250 by the Lords of Krumlov, the 14th through 16th centuries brought a period of great splendor to Cesky Krumlov, which became a stop along one of the main trading routes to Italy.

We walked the winding, cobbled streets to admire the splendidly preserved historic buildings of the medieval town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and ascend to the top of the hill to visit Cesky Krumlov Castle, a Renaissance jewel that encompasses more than 40 buildings, courtyards and gardens, a castle brewery—and live bears who roam the castle’s moat. This castle is one of the largest in Central Europe and was originally constructed in the 13th century into the side of the rock cliffs towering above the Vltava river, giving stunning views across the rooftops of the town.

We also visited the recently opened Castle Museum, which features precious artifacts previously hidden in Castle depositories

After lunch, we rode to the country town of Vetrni, where we begin a peaceful rafting excursion along the Vltava River. We paddled about three miles on the gentle waters of the river, with six travelers and an “instructor” in each raft. The shallow rapids along this stretch of the Vlata are controlled by concrete weirs that cross the river.  This trip was easy, passing through charming countryside.  Our guide pointed out some abandoned buildings that were once textile factories.  Presently there is no longer any textile industry in the Czech Republic as that industry has all gone to China.

After rafting, Tereza treated us to a shot of Becherovka,an herbal bitters, often drunk as a digestive aid produced in the Czech Republic.  Becherovka is often described as having a gingery or cinnamony flavor. It is made from a secret recipe based on a wide variety of herbs and spices