Jewels of Bohemia Day 5

Saturday, August 30      Český Krumlov

After breakfast, we took a walking tour of Cesky Krumlov, one of Europe's most picturesque locales. Nestled inside a narrow loop of the Vltava River, this romantic town with its hilltop castle was once a wealthy trading center and a favorite of European nobility. Today, its confection of red-gabled roofs, elegant bridges, and storybook castle lures lovers of history, culture, and architecture alike. Established in 1250 by the Lords of Krumlov, the 14th through 16th centuries brought a period of great splendor to Cesky Krumlov, which became a stop along one of the main trading routes to Italy.

We walked the winding, cobbled streets to admire the splendidly preserved historic buildings of the medieval town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and ascend to the top of the hill to visit Cesky Krumlov Castle, a Renaissance jewel that encompasses more than 40 buildings, courtyards and gardens, a castle brewery—and live bears who roam the castle’s moat. This castle is one of the largest in Central Europe and was originally constructed in the 13th century into the side of the rock cliffs towering above the Vltava river, giving stunning views across the rooftops of the town.

We also visited the recently opened Castle Museum, which features precious artifacts previously hidden in Castle depositories

After lunch, we rode to the country town of Vetrni, where we begin a peaceful rafting excursion along the Vltava River. We paddled about three miles on the gentle waters of the river, with six travelers and an “instructor” in each raft. The shallow rapids along this stretch of the Vlata are controlled by concrete weirs that cross the river.  This trip was easy, passing through charming countryside.  Our guide pointed out some abandoned buildings that were once textile factories.  Presently there is no longer any textile industry in the Czech Republic as that industry has all gone to China.

After rafting, Tereza treated us to a shot of Becherovka,an herbal bitters, often drunk as a digestive aid produced in the Czech Republic.  Becherovka is often described as having a gingery or cinnamony flavor. It is made from a secret recipe based on a wide variety of herbs and spices

 

Jewels of Bohemia Day 4

August 29, Friday.  Vojna Memorial

After breakfast, we began our overland journey to Cesky Krumlov, stopping along the way to visit the Vojna Memorial, a Communist Concentration Camp. Located in the middle of a forest, Vojna was originally built by German POWs after World War II as a labor camp to work the nearby uranium mines. With the communist takeover in 1948, Vojna transitioned into a notorious forced labor camp for political prisoners of the communist regime until 1961. Today, the Vojna Memorial is a powerful reminder of the many Czech victims of the communist regime.

 
The rectangular gray areas show where more buildings once stood.

Guard posts ringed the camp

Prisoners who violated the rules were sent to this underground bunker.  From left:  Roy, Arnet, Odell, Al, Nancy, Me

Sleeping quarters.



After leaving Vojna, we stopped for lunch at a restaurant in Pisek, a picturesque Bohemian town founded in the 13th century on the banks of the Otava River.  I loved Pisek and would like to live in a charming, quaint village such as that. The stone bridge is the oldest remaining bridge in the country, built before the end of the 13th century.

sand sculpture

sand sculpture

 

The house "U kouli" (the balls)

Once part of one of three medieval gates - the Putim Gate. When it was demolished in 1836, canon balls found near the gate were set into the facade of the house, hence its name. The front of the building also preserved some Renaissance graffito. 

The deanery church of the Virgin Mary's Birth

A three-nave building from the mid 13th century, originally with twin towers. One of the towers was raised in 1489 and now reaches a height of 70 meters.




Upon arrival in Cesky Krumlov, we checked in to our hotel and then headed down to the hotel restaurant for dinner accompanied by traditional (Medieval) Czech dances.  Two of our group, Alyce and the bus driver, were invited to join in.

The bus driver and Alyce taking a lesson in Medieval dancing

Jewels of Bohemia Day 3

August 28, Prague

We took a walk in Mala Strana, near the French Embassy, and saw the John Lennon Wall. The wall that was formerly an ordinary wall in Prague has been called Lennon´s since the 1980s, when people have filled it with John Lennon-inspired graffiti and pieces of lyrics from Beatles songs. Why?

Lennon was a hero to the pacifist youth of Central and Eastern Europe during the totalitarian era. Prior to 1989 when communism ruled, western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities, and especially John Lennon´s songs, because it was praising freedom that didn’t exist here. Some musicians were actually jailed for playing it!

When John Lennon was murdered in 1980 he became a sort of hero to some of the young and his picture was painted on this wall, for whatever reason right here, along with graffiti defying the authorities. Don’t forget that back then the Czech people had few opportunities to express their feelings with their lack of freedom. By doing this, those young activists risked prison for what authorities called “subversive activities against the state”.

After walking across the Charles Bridge and spending a little time checking out the vendors along the way, we took a boat ride on the Vltava River, giving us a different perspective of Prague.

On Charles Bridge

We spent some free time in the afternoon browsing in the little shops along the ends of the bridge.  I bought a wooden puppet in national dress.  After a little searching, we found a Starbucks right in Old Town and bought a Czech Republic cup. 

Jewels of Bohemia Day 2 Afternoon

Wednesday, August 27    Afternoon

The Jewish Quarter

We spent the afternoon of our first full day in Prague exploring the synagogues, museum and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter. The Prague Ghetto and vibrant Jewish community have contributed to Prague’s character since the tenth century.   Dave and I bought a pass and got to about 6 of the remaining synagogues, the museum, and the Jewish cemetery.  The cemetery was too small to bury all Prague’s Jews so they began covering over the old graves with dirt and layered on new ones.  In some places the graves are 12 layers deep.  They brought up the headstones from each layer so that now the top is covered with headstones, many toppling over.

The Prague Jewish Museum

Below:  Completed in 1270 in the Gothic style, the Old-New Synagogue was one of Prague's first Gothic buildings.  It was originally called the New or Great Shul to distinguish it from a still older one, which was demolished in 1867. Then, when newer synagogues were built in the 16th century, it became known as the Old-New Synagogue!

Photos were not allowed inside the synagogues, but Dave managed to shoot a few anyway.

Jewels of Bohemia: Prague to Budapest and lots in between Day 2 Morning

August 25 - September 8 Dave and I went on a tour of Bohemia

-- Prague to Budapest -- and much in between.

 

August 27, Morning

After breakfast, we set off on a guided walking tour of Prague, a magical city nestled in a bend of the Vltava River whose spires have endured to create one of Europe’s most romantic skylines. The local guide was Martina, whose English was excellent. While other European capitals were leveled during World War II, Prague survived virtually intact. Among the structures to remain remarkably undamaged was Prague’s great landmark, Prague Castle—the world’s largest ancient castle complex and still the seat of political power. Originally built during the ninth century, Prague Castle has evolved over the centuries, blending Romanesque, Gothic, and even Spanish architectural styles.  Roughly the size of seven football fields, Prague Castle is the largest ancient castle in the world. It was built and renovated during 13 centuries.  Today, it is a sprawling complex of breathtaking enormity and a symbol of Czech unity. 


We explored the vaulted halls, cathedrals, flagstone courtyards, and sprawling gardens of the castle area, which includes a number of historic buildings.

 

St. Vitus Cathedral is an excellent example of Gothic architecture and is the biggest and most important church in the country. Located within Prague Castle, it contain the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors.

 The clock tower, the tallest of the cathedral's towers, can be seen from all over Prague. The tower's spire reaches a height of 317 ft. The most remarkable about the tower is its top; while most of the tower - and the rest of the cathedral - is of Gothic design, the upper part is in Renaissance style and topped with a Baroque dome.

The stained glass window below is in art nouveau style by Alfons Mucha.